When Rome’s Pope of Pasta Popped Up in London, Minus His Secondo
When I received Arcangelo Dandini's shopping list for the SpagWednesday alla Matriciana pop-up dinner last October I was relieved to see the great Roman chef's instructions were clear and reasonable; the ingredients, all easy gets. I knew I could count on Melograno Alimentari in Holland Park for the very best Italian meats, cheeses and pasta and Andreas Fine Fruit & …
My Indefensible Rating of a London Pizza
Critics have felt my ranking of the pizza at Story Deli in Shoreditch as eighth best in London was wrongheaded. After a long period of soul searching I've arrived at the same conclusion, only from the opposite direction. For purists the problem is the wafer-thin platform made from the no-yeast dough owner-baker Lee Hollingworth flattens with a rolling pin and bakes for 30 seconds at …
Saporitalia Pizza Connects Mozzarella Dots
If you want to understand my desire for a molten mozzarella unfulfilled by some of London's top-rated pizzerias, hurry to Saporitalia, opened two weeks ago on Portobello Road in Notting Hill, order a Margherita and see how the islets of fior di latte (cow's milk mozza) melt into one another, keeping soft and fluid even minutes after the pizza has been pulled from the wood-fired …
Massimo Bottura Compresses His Grandmother
Waste of your time to go to a fine restaurant for simple, unpretentious comfort food you could make at home? Waste of a hotshot chef’s time to cook it? If you’ve answered yes chef Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana, just named world’s fifth best restaurant at this year's World's Best Awards, suggests you wake up and smell the Parmigiano-Reggiano. Not just any Parmigiano-Reggiano but …
Is The Sea Shell London Legend or London Myth?
Search online for the best fish and chips in London and you're sure to find several first-page references to The Sea Shell of Lisson Grove. Rarely is the praise on review sites so unanimous. Just look at the intros from the toptable.co.uk and timeout.com reviews: Marylebone restaurant The Seashell of Lisson Grove promises to fulfill the fish and chips dreams of any discerning London …
