Once more notorious for its assorted mischief than its diverse flavours, the French seaport of Marseille has experienced a cultural renaissance, establishing it as a Mediterranean capital of film, fashion, music and cuisine. From the city’s world-famous bouillabaisse to enticing émigré foods to venerable street treats to Provençal bistro fare, the cooking at this culinary crossroads bears a distinctly folksy, made-in-Marseille stamp.
Daniel Young explores the authentic flavours of France’s great southern gateway, extending from the Marseille of antiquity, found intact in the limestone cliffs of the rocky coastline, to the Marseille of romantic intrigue, still apparent in the labyrinthine passageways climbing from the Vieux Port. Of course there are bouillabaisse recipes, including chicken and vegetarian variations. Among other definitive recipes are the legendary pan-fried calamari with parsley and garlic from Chez Etienne and the foolproof formula for grilling fish from L’Escale. Fragrant soups, savory pastries, rustic meat and chicken dishes and hearty vegetable stews are prepared with the building blocks of the healthful, French-Mediterranean diet: olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, zucchini, fennel, eggplant, artichokes, olives, basil, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, almonds, figs and honey.
For those who love France’s melting pot, MADE IN MARSEILLE is a romance. Its text and photographs brought back the Marseille I knew and loved decades ago. And the book also puts this raffish repository of many cultures on today’s culinary map for more than bouillabaisse…The trick of making a butter-like spread by freezing a little olive oil, then putting it in the refrigerator until it softens [recipe here], is a keeper.
- Florence Fabricant, The New York Times
