No Chef Does Overkill Like Carl Clarke

4in1Saturday Pop-Up, 15 December 2012
photos by Ian Sargent
Disco Bistro EC4, City of London
Carl Clarke – @ccdiscobistro, chef
Hosted by Daniel Young (and Foodish)
Crackled fried clam sandwich
Spicy crab & buttermilk sauce on
hot dog buns
Fried clams in a buttermilk batter with salt brine,
three starch flours & one secret ingredient.
Fried pig skin seasoned with shellfish dust
French dipped burger, pulled 72-hour short rib,
beef fat crinkle chips
Homemade cheese made with aged beef fat , beer,
two cheeses & sodium citrate
[top] Pulled 72-hour short rib. [middle] Bun slice "French-dipped"
in BBQ sauce. [bottom] Pure Devon Ruby burger patty
Spiced chocolate & coffee doughnuts
Coffee glaze on Valrhona chocolate doughnuts
Valrhona chocolate sauce

 
The unspoken idea behind the December 15th #4in1Saturday pop-up was overkill. And who better, I thought, to merge four of my daily obsessions – BurgerMonday, WichThursday, FryFriday, CoffeeSaturday – without a gram of compromise than Carl Clarke of Disco Bistro EC4?

For his BurgerMonday pop-up in April Clarke had created a French-dipped burger with so much juice and beef dripping the only safe place to hold it was over the sink. For 4-in-1Saturday he packed more impending danger into that burger, first by adding pulled 72-hour short rib and a homemade cheese made from beef fat, beer and two cheeses and then by “French-dipping” the extra bun slice in a viscous BBQ sauce made with chicken wing gravy, bacon grease, pig’s trotters and bone marrow.

To satiate the WichThursday and FryFriday components he ramped up the fried clam sandwich, a New England classic brought to Old England, with a spicy crab and battermilk sauce and a fried pigskin topping.

He closed the programme by revisiting FryFriday with Valrhona chocolate doughnuts, applying an arabica glaze as the CoffeeSaturday finish and chocolate sauce for dipping.

No one in London does overkill like Carl Clarke and maybe that’s a good thing: The work is as exhausting and it is exhilarating, for the diner as well the chef.


 

photos by Ian Sargent

About Daniel

Food critic and events leader Daniel Young is the "Young" behind young&foodish

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