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@BabyFoodish is unimpressed.
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Seven Degrees of Separation
It is perhaps unfair of me to fault Mother Flipper for slightly overcooking their burgers, missing by less than a minute the liftoff from the flat-top griddle to juicy medium rare. This has happened twice, first in February at its original home ground at Brockley Market in Southeast London and again yesterday at its Eat Street debut behind Kings Cross Station.
In the US you wouldn’t expect short order cooks at diners, truck stops and burger stands to make the distinction between pale and deep pink, especially burgers below the 5-ounce and 4-dollar barriers. So why hold their UK counterparts to a higher standard? [Read more...]
18 April 2012 By 3 Comments
Holy Mother Flipper: Look at That Burger!
As soon as I set eyes on the Double Candy Bacon Flipper I was determined to set my claws and teeth on it, too. Only the laws of the jungle held me back. Like a animal dragging his prey to a secure place I whisked my Double Candy away from the onlookers, put some distance between myself and the food stall parasols and found a weedy patch of car park partly shaded by a brick enclosure. It was here, safe and alone, that I unwrapped this devilish stack of desires, took a first bite, enlarged it with a second and then paused to snap this photo, holding the burger in one hand (bad idea) and my camera in the other. [Read more...]
27 February 2012 By 6 Comments
Ted’s Steamed Burger Does What it Says in the Tin
There’s no arguing Ted’s Restaurant‘s steamed cheeseburgers are world famous. Not since the circa 1959 burger joint was featured in George Motz‘s Hamburger America, the book as well as the film, and on the TV show Man v. Food.
But convincing family members that Ted’s had been worth the schlep to Meridien, a small city in central Connecticut about 100 miles northeast of New York? No such luck. Laurie, Bill, Aaron and Viv Youngandfoodish were all put off by the dense, monochromatic, flavour-challenged burger meat. So was I. [Read more...]
6 January 2012 By 6 Comments
At MEATliquor, Burger Love is Blind
MEATliquor occupies a hidden site back side of Debenhams’ Oxford Street flagship, its only tag a red neon sign that spells MEAT as if viewed through shutter shades. No matter. The bar-and-griddle is the first taxable address registered to the Meatwagon‘s Yianni Papoutsis and Scott Collins, his partner at Meateasy, the back-pub pop-up his burger truck inspired. The mere presence of their burgers and cocktails is enough to shift London’s collective eatinerary to the grey corner of Henrietta and Welbeck Streets. Even the 73 bus is on MEATliquor deviation. [Read more...]
18 November 2011 By 10 Comments
What Do You Think is Wrong with the Dalston Superstore Burger?
The bacon cheeseburger at the Dalston Superstore in theultra- cool heart of East London sure is tall. Maybe the skyscraper burger is the bar’s idea of New York style.
Whatever.
I identified no fewer than eight serious problems with the one I ordered medium-rare. [Read more...]
31 October 2011 By 16 Comments
Bewitched, Bothered & Betruffled: The Opera Tavern Deluxe Pop-Up Burger
One of two things usually happen when chefs try to tart up and upsize something that’s already really good: Either the enhanced version doesn’t measure up to the original or it’s so good there’s no going back. [Read more...]
18 October 2011 By Leave a Comment
