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In: critics watch

No Happy Monday in Manchester for Jay Rayner July 7, 2010


When Jay Rayner arrived for lunch at Obsidian on a damp Manchester Monday he found a restaurant unprepared to serve any…

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A critic’s revelation: not all dishes are to all tastes January 19, 2010


Few clichés in food criticism are as vacuous as this observation commonly applied to exotic cuisines: Not all dishes will be…

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Guardian says Chinese disrespect veg January 18, 2010


While many attack the Chinese for repressing human rights or restraining the value of their currency, The Guardian Weekend magazine‘s Matthew…

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Food critic likens lamp to surrealist muse October 14, 2009


The typical tasks of a restaurant reviewer may not be sufficiently challenging for Marina O’Loughlin, food critic of the London free…

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Quelle surprise: AA Gill likes award-winning smoked salmon July 19, 2009


If Times reviewer AA Gill knew he would be basing his judgment of the kitchen at Lutyens on a handful of…

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Guardian critic likens squid to a Durex June 15, 2009


In his review of The Wine Theatre on London’s South Bank, the Guardian’s Matthew Norman quotes the expert opinion of his…

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What the duck, Zoe? May 8, 2009


In her Telegraph review of Min Jiang in London’s Royal Garden Hotel, Zoe Williams does not telegraph the identity of the “star…

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The perils of trickle-down gastronomics April 21, 2009


Subsequent to the naming of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, awards judge and Guardian food critic Jay Rayner makes a courageous…

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The Guardian’s Matthew Norman is either derelict or diabetic in his duties April 12, 2009


My first objection to Norman’s review of The Crown Inn in the London commuter county of Buckinghamshire may sound like a quibble, but it does…

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Letter to the critic who hated the bread at Moro January 24, 2009


Dear Andy Hayler, I stumbled upon your review of Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1), which was reprinted at myvillage.com, and had great…

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