The Guardian’s Matthew Norman is either derelict or diabetic in his duties

My first objection to Norman’s review of The Crown Inn in the London commuter county of Buckinghamshire may sound like a quibble, but it does illustrate his propensity to base his pronouncements on thin evidence. He samples but two of the mains on offer (6 on the menu + daily specials), yet claims to have backed “the main course winner”. Sorry, Matthew, but you cannot follow just two horses in the Grand National and be confident that one of them is THE winner.

My second objection is the greater neglect. [Read more...]

Letter to the critic who hated the bread at Moro

Dear Andy Hayler,

I stumbled upon your review of Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1), which was reprinted at myvillage.com, and had great difficulty digesting your description of its bread as “poor, too airy, floury and lacking salt”. The hardest part for me to chew was the too-airy bit. My recurring complaint about the breads at London bakeries and restaurants is that they’re not airy enough. Neither are they chewy, coarse or crusty, the way I expect artisanal, rustic, hand-kneaded breads to be, the way Moro’s exceptional sourdough is. I accept that the English, like most Americans, are accustomed to soft, squishy, fine-textured breads, but I’d hoped that well-travelled food writers like yourself would stand up for air pockets, educate readers and influence taste. [Read more...]

Do you have to be fat to be a great cook?

In his review of Corrigan’s Mayfair in London, Matthew Norman devotes the first 285 words to a single hypothesis: The best professional cooks are, like Norman himself, portly:

Just as you can’t put too much faith in a bald barber or in a psychiatrist whose jacket does up from the back, so you cannot fully trust a professional cook with a Body Mass Index anywhere near whatever nonsense the powers that be classify as “normal”.

The premise is neither amusing nor original nor valid. A thick rim of fat might be a requirement for dart players, judging from last week’s World Darts Championship at Lakeside, but Heston Blumenthal, Joël RobuchonFerran Adrià, Alain Ducasse and Thomas Keller prove you don’t need a body like the Michelin man’s to gather his stars. [Read more...]

Are you seeking cover from an authoritative source?

At lunch on Thursday, Peter Harden, the co-publisher (with his brother Richard) of Harden’s London and UK restaurant guides, named a 7th (or is it now 8th) reason why diners seek out restaurant reviews: cover from blame should a restaurant suggestion of theirs disappoint.

One vital reason people consult guides and newspaper critiques is when they are inviting someone to a restaurant, that they want to borrow credibility for the decision from an established authority, so they can say – if things go wrong – ah well, it’s surprising because it has a great review in, just for sake of example, Harden’s. [Read more...]

Do food critics give us permission to ‘like’ a restaurant?

In this 24 September post I listed 6 things readers might expect to get from a restaurant review.  I may need to add a 7th consideration, “The Permission Factor”. I first heard this applied to theatre reviews in this article from Monday’s New York Times analysing the demise of the Broadway musical Young Frankenstein. Noting that audience satisfaction surveys rated the show above 90 percent despite so-so reviews from the critics, producer Robert F. X. Sillerman cited the permission factor as one reason why this did not translate into positive word of mouth and increased sales:

People sometimes need permission to like things, and they get the affirmation of that from friends and critics and from a general perception.

Diners might seek permission from friends, colleagues, mavens, foodies or, yes, paid food critics, to like a particular restaurant, chef, dish, recipe, trend, etc.  I know from personal experience that food critics themselves seek permission from their own networks of food experts (chefs, growers, artisans, culinary scholars, publicists) to like something new or unfamiliar, too. Without that validation they may be hesitant to extol an alien dish or an unknown chef.

A sucker for honesty

In his pedestrian review of Le Bouchon Breton’s new sibling at Spitalfields, The Independent’s Terry Durack begins with the observation that “an honest waiter is hard to find”. This ostensibly explains why he was both surprised and impressed by the candour of François Bertrand, the brasserie’s restaurant manager:

Tell him you are dithering between the steak frites and the moules frites, and he will tell you the steak frites is good, but no better or worse than any other steak frites around town. The moules, on the other hand, he says, are done better at only one or two other places.

It’s odd that Durack would single out Bertrand as that rarity, an honest waiter, when he identifies Bertrand as the restaurant manager. And even if, as Durack might argue, Bertrand was assuming the responsibilities and posture of an honest head waiter, he might have been doing so only because he recognized the critic and thought it advisable to take charge of his table and do whatever was necessary to prevent him from ordering and ultimately slamming the mediocre steak frites. [Read more...]

He who eats Chinese where the Chinese eat Chinese…

I’m not sure if the “when-in-Rome” rule of choosing Chinese restaurants originated in the Analects of Confucius or in a 1926 fortune cookie dispensed at a San Francisco chow mein house. Regardless, this principle of choosing among not just Chinese but other exotic ethnic restaurants endures. The low-tech method was to press your nose to restaurant windows and choose the one with the most (and preferably the happiest) native diners. The new method is to google for guidance from critics, bloggers and reader reviewers who themselves are wont to base their judgements on ethnic profiling.  Like The Observer’s Jay Rayner I am reluctant to assume a restaurant is promising merely because it is filled with diners who share its nationality. Yet I, like Rayner, am heartened to find myself the lone outsider in a popular, insider’s refuge. [Read more...]

What Readers Expect from Reviews & Reviewers

Last night I attended a ScreenTalk at the Barbican with film critic/writer (and former Journal of Gastronomy editor) David Thomson and film director John Boorman held prior to a screening of the Ernst Lubitsch classic To Be or Not to Be. While discussing the role of newspaper film critics, Boorman suggested that people read film reviews in posh papers so that they DON’T have to see the films themselves. This got me to thinking about newspaper restaurant reviews and what their readers want from them. [Read more...]