In part 4 of Steak Frites – Mastering the Cuts, an empathetic Henry Harris of Racine feels the pain of any cook, home or professional, who’s experienced béarnaise anxiety syndrome. He explains how to save a split béarnaise. Unfortunately, his advice will of no help to any unlucky diner who is served a curdled, runny [...]

In part 3 of Steak Frites – Mastering the Cuts, Henry Harris of Racine Restaurant stresses that the rich, almost syrupy sauce in which his pepper-crusted showcase steak sits should not be likened to brandied butter or a flavoured stock. Rather, a proper filet au poivre, its peppery kick notwithstanding, is about bringing everything together [...]

In the second part of steak frites – mastering the cuts, Henry Harris reveals the shalls and shall nots of onglet aux échalottes. Onglet, a butcher’s cut, may also be called skirt, hanger or, if it’s the prized onglet from O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge seen in this video, “Steak O’Shea”.
If the video has made you salivate, as [...]

To enhance and celebrate our shared appreciation for an unsurpassed pairing of meat and potatoes, youngandfoodish launches steak frites – mastering the cuts, a series of 6 web videos featuring Racine chef Henry Harris, with meat by Darragh O’Shea of O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge.
The daily release of the videos, shot by Brian Jones and co-produced by [...]

Byron makes an eminently likeable burger. That the UK chain of hamburger restaurants uses a mix of rump, chuck and brisket from traceable, grass-fed, 21-day, 100% Aberdeen Angus beef makes for interesting reading while you’re waiting for your burger to cook. But commendable sourcing is no sure indicator of a good result.

Picture a one-armed South Bank street performer juggling pumpkins while being sprayed from the Thames by a naked Duke of Edinburgh skidding by on a jet ski and you can begin to appreciate my astonishment upon seeing an elegant Knightsbridge woman walk out of  Jack O’Shea butcher shop without one of its incomparable pork belly [...]

When the old hall of London’s Borough Market was shut a month ago to facilitate construction of a new Thameslink train line into London Bridge station, the baker De Gustibus was one of four traders suddenly forced to give up their stalls. That was a devastating development both for the DG employees who would likely [...]

Is August a bad month for salt beef? I certainly hope so. For if the drop in form at two of London’s very best salt beef purveyors is not due to seasonal disruptions, it isn’t only my list of the top 5 salt beef sandwiches in London that will need to be overhauled. I’ll have [...]

One of the many cultural advantages of my move from the US to the UK is that it’s been a cinch to avoid shopping malls. Nearly 5 years in London and I’ve only stepped inside a single mall, Brent Cross Shopping Centre – twice because I couldn’t get a Genius Bar reservation at the Apple [...]

Salt beef, like New York-style corned beef, is a Jewish deli meat made from beef briskets cured in brine. The salt breaks down the tough brisket meat while letting its flavours emerge.  Salt beef ought not be an exercise in aerobic mastication, as some London purveyors would have you believe, nor should it be stringy [...]