Taking Your Salt Beef As It Comes

In an era when cured pig back is more chic than caviar and the once prized but hopelessly lean fillet (filet mignon) cut may soon be sold off for scrap it’s hard to remember back to a time when fat was a four-letter word. Seek out any good Old English dictionary and you’ll find fat listed as fæt – f-a-e-t, I kid you not.

Sure there were peasants who by circumstance or choice sought out the fattier bits of fatty meats. They regarded the streaks of marbling running through beef as thoroughfares of flavour and happiness. But it’s unlikely many striving for acceptance in genteel London managed to be as unabashed about their preference for the bad white stuff as Walter Matthau, who, as Oscar Madison in Neil Simon‘s The Odd Couple, tells the New York waitress: “Give me a corned beef on rye, all fat.” [Read more…]

St John the Place to Chase a Leicester Square Skirt

The restaurant at Fergus Henderson‘s new St John Hotel stands as a gently lit oasis of white and stainless-steel functionality amid the glare and sleaze of after-hours Leicester Square. The grilled skirt steak with beef dripping chips, herb-shallot mustard and cress pares down the only-in-London St John dining experience to a minimalist ideal: The 41st best restaurant in the world compressed into a hotel canteen in the short form of a subdued late-night menu with meat and potatoes in the middle. [Read more…]

BurgerMondayPopUp Co-Chef James Lowe Seeks Shitload of Fat at O’Shea’s Butchers

To source a generously fatty blend of the finest, private reserve 100% Perthshire Black Angus Beef for the BurgerMondayPopup presented by young&foodish in London on 24 January, James Lowe, the chef at St John Bread & Wine, consulted with butcher Darragh O’Shea at his shop in Knightsbridge.

The Irrashonal Burger: Bacon Patty in Place of Rashers

the meatwagon, londonIf you’ve caught up with London’s The Meatwagon you may have noticed something different riding on its bacon cheeseburgers. In place of bacon rashers (strips) Yianni Papoutsis piggybacks his beef burgers with a griddle-fried patty of chopped boiled bacon. [Read more…]

The Ivy’s £13.75 Burger Bowls Me Over

setting the table for london's most overpriced burgerMy interest in The Ivy had nothing to do with stargazing at that famous celebrity haunt in London’s West End. I had asked Dino Joannides, whose passion is gastronomy and not astronomy, to meet me there for lunch to help answer a single question:

Was The Ivy burger good enough to justify its £13.75 (about $21) price? [Read more…]

John Torode’s Burger Buns Like Meat in My Hands

Invited by MasterChef‘s John Torode to try the house burger at his new bar and grill on behalf of burgermonday I sunk into this two-hander with hope and hunger. The LUXE burger proved to be an irresistible hunk oozing beefy, cheesy, yolky juices with every bite. Lucious and lushish!

The only bummer was the bun. [Read more…]

epic steak frites dinner: sizing up the cuts

The next youngandfoodish Steak Frites Tasting Dinner will be Tuesday 25 May in the private dining room of Racine Restaurant in London.

The menu will again feature three steak classics – onglet aux échalottes, filet au poivre, côte de boeuf – prepared by chef Henry Harris with the finest cuts of dry-aged, grass-fed beef selected by Darragh O’Shea of the great London butcher O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge. Each steak will be matched to a red wine selected by Peter Lowe of Berkmann Wine Cellars:

  • onglet aux échalottes <–> Morgon Domaine Jean Descombes 2008
  • filet au poivre <–> Antinori Santa Cristina 2008
  • côte de boeuf with béarnaise <– > Côtes-du-Rhône Saint-Esprit 2007
  • Space is limited. Book now.


    Mastering the cutswatch the videos

    Why do you love steak frites?see the winning response in #steakfrites twitter competiton

    why the poke test works for steaks but not burgers

    Because steaks firm up as they cook, one way to test them for doneness is the poke test. By lightly pressing the meat with your forefinger you can get a feel for how done it is and how much longer it needs to cook. A rare steak will be soft; a medium-rare steak, gently yielding; a medium steak, firm; a well-done steak, very firm. [Read more…]