World’s thickest, moussiest espresso crema
The technique used by Rome’s renowned Caffè Sant’Eustachio to produce an astoundingly thick, foamy head of crema atop its signature Gran Caffè is a closely guarded secret. Screens on each side of the Astoria espresso machines block the view of nosey cafenatics seeking a peek at any covert manoeuvres performed by the baristas. Author/blogger David Lebovitz suspects that a small amount of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is added to the water to agitate the foaming action as espressos are pulled. My contacts at illy in Trieste and the incomparable Caffè Terzi in Bologna agree that some form of foaming agent is used. If so, the powder is likely added out of view and the screens are merely props in a theatrical illusion.
Posted: November 12th, 2009 under coffee.
Tags: baking soda, bicarbonate soda, Caffè Sant'Eustachio, crema, espresso, foaming agent, Gran Caffè, illy, Pantheon, Rome, Terzi
Comments
Comment from Glenn
Time 12 November 2009 at 10:36 am
There is usually a detectable sweetness, possibly introduced using sugar syrup.
Many fellow visitors to this cafe have commented on this attribute their coffee displays.
Comment from e_ting
Time 12 November 2009 at 10:37 am
Interesting – but question is – wouldn’t sensitive palates be able to taste/feel the addition of baking powder? Make me want to try it!
Comment from Dan
Time 12 November 2009 at 11:16 am
e_ting – The suggestion is that they’re adding baking soda, not baking powder. David Lebovitz, an accomplished baker, argues that the acid in the coffee can neutralise the bitter taste of the baking soda.
Comment from Dan
Time 12 November 2009 at 11:31 am
Glenn – You’re right, they do add sugar in one form or another to the Gran Caffè.
Comment from Anthony Silverbrow
Time 12 November 2009 at 1:56 pm
Looks pretty grim though. What does it taste like?
Comment from Dan
Time 12 November 2009 at 4:28 pm
Anthony – The taste and texture of the foam are not unpleasant in the least. Although the espresso is not outstanding, as some insist, its mysteriously frothy crema is a Roman phenomenon. It is hard to imagine a trip to the Eternal City without a stop at this institution. Sometimes I refer to the Pantheon as “that old dome with a hole its roof near Caffè Sant’Eustachio”
Comment from adam
Time 12 November 2009 at 9:14 pm
all very logical – will try tomorrow in stoke newintgon, london…………….
Comment from George@CulinaryTravels
Time 14 November 2009 at 8:49 pm
Certainly an interesting concept. Wonder if I could replicate the result at home, will have to attempt it.
Comment from Dan
Time 15 November 2009 at 8:27 am
George – Proceed with caution: You don’t want to damage your espresso machine.
Comment from Gourmet Chick
Time 18 November 2009 at 4:06 pm
Wow that is a LOT of crema – looks like super strong coffee
Comment from Juliet
Time 4 December 2009 at 11:14 am
I went there about 12 years ago, and had the best espresso ever – absolutely memorable. Don’t remember it looking like that. Maybe it’s a recent development?
Comment from Dan
Time 4 December 2009 at 12:56 pm
They’ve being doing the ultra-foamy coffees for years. But you have to ask for a Gran Caffè, rather than a simple espresso, for the supercharged effect.
Comment from George@CulinaryTravels
Time 14 December 2009 at 4:44 am
Thanks for the word of caution, I have an old machine that I don’t mind experimenting with … not my new Gaggia though, I’d be mortified if managed to do damage to that.
Comment from Gastro1
Time 12 November 2009 at 10:33 am
Enos Fruit Salts ?