The technique used by Rome’s renowned Caffè Sant’Eustachio to produce an astoundingly thick, foamy head of crema atop its signature Gran Caffè is a closely guarded secret. Screens on each side of the Astoria espresso machines block the view of nosey cafenatics seeking a peek at any covert manoeuvres performed by the baristas. Author/blogger David Lebovitz suspects that a small amount of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is added to the water to agitate the foaming action as espressos are pulled. My contacts at illy in Trieste and the incomparable Caffè Terzi in Bologna agree that some form of foaming agent is used. If so, the powder is likely added out of view and the screens are merely props in a theatrical illusion.
World’s thickest, moussiest espresso crema
12 November 2009 By 20 Comments
About Daniel YoungDaniel Young, the "young" in young&foodish, made his name following the food scene in New York and Paris as newspaper critic and cookbook author. Now he leads the action as creator and host of event nights in London.
Enos Fruit Salts ?
There is usually a detectable sweetness, possibly introduced using sugar syrup.
Many fellow visitors to this cafe have commented on this attribute their coffee displays.
Interesting – but question is – wouldn’t sensitive palates be able to taste/feel the addition of baking powder? Make me want to try it!
e_ting – The suggestion is that they’re adding baking soda, not baking powder. David Lebovitz, an accomplished baker, argues that the acid in the coffee can neutralise the bitter taste of the baking soda.
Glenn – You’re right, they do add sugar in one form or another to the Gran Caffè.
Looks pretty grim though. What does it taste like?
Anthony – The taste and texture of the foam are not unpleasant in the least. Although the espresso is not outstanding, as some insist, its mysteriously frothy crema is a Roman phenomenon. It is hard to imagine a trip to the Eternal City without a stop at this institution. Sometimes I refer to the Pantheon as “that old dome with a hole its roof near Caffè Sant’Eustachio”
all very logical – will try tomorrow in stoke newintgon, london…………….
Certainly an interesting concept. Wonder if I could replicate the result at home, will have to attempt it.
George – Proceed with caution: You don’t want to damage your espresso machine.
Wow that is a LOT of crema – looks like super strong coffee
I went there about 12 years ago, and had the best espresso ever – absolutely memorable. Don’t remember it looking like that. Maybe it’s a recent development?
They’ve being doing the ultra-foamy coffees for years. But you have to ask for a Gran Caffè, rather than a simple espresso, for the supercharged effect.
Thanks for the word of caution, I have an old machine that I don’t mind experimenting with … not my new Gaggia though, I’d be mortified if managed to do damage to that.
I’d be very interested to try this and compare taste notes to mouthfeel .. is this a win-win or does one sacrifice taste for the sake of foam? Comments please.
Ciao….da Italia!
I know the secret! It is a prefer of sugar that is refined to be tasteless but to contain the crystalline structure. It is whipped with 1 shot of caffe and just a pinch of the sugar and vigorly whipped with a whisk in miniature. This creates a mousse!
Grazie!
Paolo – Intriguing, but not sure I understand: what is a prefer of sugar?
I have been to Sant’Eustachio many times but never noticed the screens, nor I knew that their foam was a secret!
What Paolo was referring to is not milky foam, but rather a coffee cream that add thickness. In Italy we call it “cremina”, it’s when you whip a bit of sugar with a shot of coffee, then pour the rest of your espresso on top, finishing with a drop of hot milk.
Giulia – Thanks for the comment. You’ve not, however, explained what a prefer of refined sugar is?
Unfortunately also I don’t know what that is! Hopefully Paolo will answer one day and let us know!
As far as I know you can use normal white sugar to make the cream.