While many attack the Chinese for repressing human rights or restraining the value of their currency, The Guardian Weekend magazine‘s Matthew Norman may be the first opinion writer for a major national newspaper to call them out en masse for undervaluing their vegetables. In his slapdash review on Saturday, 16th January of My Old Place (not the original of this London Szechuan restaurant – aka Gourmet San – on Bethnal Green Road but its spinoff near London’s Liverpool Street Station), the restaurant critic writes that “the last thing you expect from even the finest Chinese chef is the showing of respect to the veg.”
Oh, really? Who first got us either excited about – or blissfully reacquainted with – snow peas, watercress, mustard greens, Chinese broccoli, pak choi and oyster mushrooms? Who first showed us how not to overcook vegetables? Who first dazzled us with glistening greens in colours so vivid they seemed to have presaged Photoshop? Who first handmade for us translucent dumplings filled with 8, 10 and or even 12 different veg finely minced to the measure of Alistair Campbell’s humility?
If only the Guardian’s copyeditors would treat their critic’s copy with the same lack of respect that only Norman thinks Chinese chefs show their veg. Lots of precision cutting. More colour, snap, flavour.
well said, well said. norman obviously has no familiarity with anything ever cooked by a fine Chinese chef. perhaps he’s so ‘passionate’ about his ‘gutsy, scary food’ that he neglected to pay attention to anyone producing food requiring technique or finesse or subtlety…
Mei – You’re surely right, except that I don’t think respect for vegetables is limited to fine Chinese chefs. There are chefs at modest but dependable Chinese restaurants as well as home cooks who do lovely greens, too.
I’m with you 100% and have just posted about this very issue on my blog albeit not as eloquently as your good self ! I’ve also written to the Guardian for what its worth….
Mr Noodles – I disagree only with any suggestion that the points in your blog post are less eloquent than mine. I think you hit on the crux of the matter with your great closing comeback: “The last thing you anticipate from even the finest British restaurant critic is the showing of respect to Chinese food”
I encourage all to read the full post.