Just a burger? That cliché, if literally true, will now seem less a JAB at than an absurdity to the carnivorous assembled who, seated on both sides of the long BurgerMonday meatup table, watched the Hawksmoor servers set down those fat-glistening chopped steaks posed in split domes of sesame-seeded brioche.
Here was a optimally proportioned burger that transformed the dirty business of mincing and blending meat cuts into a culinary craft. Here was an implosive two-hander that spoke forcefully, even with Ogle Shield or Stichelton cheese and streaky bacon as accessories, for the deep, complex, almost gamy flavour of Longhorn beef.
Just a burger? Sorry, I don’t think so.
At the next BurgerMonday on 24 May at the new Islington location of Byron we will celebrate the glories of the double burger.
