In part 4 of Steak Frites – Mastering the Cuts, Darragh O’Shea, he of the great London butcher shop O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge, pulls out his finest grass-fed, dry-aged beef and explains how to recognise top quality by colour and cut. His personal favourite amongst the three cuts he presents to Racine chef Henry Harris for the #steakfrites tasting dinners is not the prized côte de boeuf nor the pristine filet but rather the underrated, working-class onglet. He’s proud to call that flavour-packed thick skirt the Steak O’Shea.