My Indefensible Rating of a London Pizza

[slider_pro id=”16″]

 
Critics have felt my ranking of the pizza at Story Deli in East London as eighth best in London was wrongheaded. After a long period of soul searching I’ve arrived at the same conclusion, only from the opposite direction.

For purists the problem is the wafer-thin platform made from the no-yeast dough owner-baker Lee Hollingworth flattens with a rolling pin and bakes for 30 seconds at 400°C (750°F).  There’s zero give, bend or compression to the crust, only crunch.

“I wouldn’t consider it pizza,” commented Mike Morroni. “(It’s) more a bread and topping creation.”

Others complain a pizza format nearly as light as a prawn cracker isn’t filling and, at £16, isn’t cheap. They’re right: Pound for pound it’s the priciest pizza in London.

Or maybe it’s not pizza at all, as the purists – especially those with a Neapolitan bent – maintain. If what Story Deli calls pizza is merely a flatbread then it doesn’t belong on any pizza listing, much less my London Top 10. I get that.

But if you recognise Hollingworth’s abstract creation as a pizza, which I did three years ago when I put it on a list now overdue for a reshuffling, and if you’ve praised it as the most remarkable pizza with the highest quality organic toppings in London and the first one you’d take a foodie friend from New York to try then a ranking no better than eighth is feeble and indefensible.

I demand a retraction and an apology. From me.

Story Deli‘s has relocated for the third time, to 123 Bethnal Green Road (just off Brick Lane), E2 7DG (map)

4 Comments

  1. Tom Bonasera

    Story’s pizza: Stumbled upon 3 Redchurch Street. Went in. Ate the pizza. Loved it. Lee Hollingworth told us the reason he does not use yeast is that he could not source one with good organic credentials. He’s an organic purist. I’m wondering why he doesn’t go for his own in-house developed organic sourdough starter for leavening, though.

    Reply
    • Daniel Young

      Tom – Very good point. I suspect Lee likes what he’s stumbled upon by not using yeast and sees no need to change.

      Reply
  2. Charlotte Rose

    Story Deli, Pizza or not, is in its simplest form, very, very good food. Wholesome, organic and lovingly executed. If there were a Flatbread with Topping ‘Top Ten’ then this would be the undisputed leader. We wholeheartedly admire Lee and his wonderful family for their ethic and are happy to follow them on their adventure…wherever they may eventually settle.

    Reply
    • Daniel

      Beautifully expressed, Charlotte. Thank you for sharing.

      Reply

Submit a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Related Post

Meet the Pizzas: 2019 London Pizza Festival

Meet the Pizzas: 2019 London Pizza Festival

As one of the 900 pizza-loving Londoners attending the 2019 London Pizza Festival, which returns to Borough Market June 2nd, you will not have to settle for just one or two of the showcase pizzas and forgo the rest. You'll be served quarter-pizza slices of all 6! The...

read more

BRING YOUNG & FOODISH HOME

As a member of the Young & Foodish community, you’ll hear about our latest food discoveries, recipes, videos, live sessions, product recommendations, parties and at-home events. We’ll help you lead a more foodish life.

Welcome to the Young & Foodish community.

Pin It on Pinterest

Share This