Call them pizzelle fritti, if you insist on using the correct term for this Neapolitan treat. But I took one bite of the golden dough fritter topped with spicy tomato sauce and grated Parmesan and instantly thought doughnut. Savoury doughnut. Pizza doughnut.
Two of my favourite things in the world, together in one neat little bundle (an order of three is £4). And who says dreams don’t really come true?
Meter is a pop-up pizza bar so naturally there is a pizza, too: Neapolitan-style pizza (read: thin and soft in the middle, puffy rim) stretched out by Naples pizzaiolo Valentino and portioned and priced (from £7-£12) by the quarter-metre. Val’s Margherita benefits from quality tomatoes, plenty of fresh (uncooked) basil and supremely melty fior di latte (cow’s milk mozzarella); the Melanzane, from the addition of sweet aubergines, Parmesan and delightful dabs of ricotta. Nice! [slider_pro id=”3″]
Charred in a pizza oven fired with gas and not wood, the cornicione (rim) needs more air pockets offering greater compression to the chew. It’s a tad too doughy. This is nevertheless real good pizza that makes Meter matter for City-to-Shoreditch stopovers and Clerkenwell-to-Hoxton layovers. The comfy lounge bar space was known as The Camp. Many still call it that. Years from now, long after The Camp name is forgotten and the Meter has sadly popped down there will be a blue plaque on the building’s facade:
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