In part 4 of Steak Frites – Mastering the Cuts, an empathetic Henry Harris of Racine feels the pain of any cook, home or professional, who’s experienced béarnaise anxiety syndrome. He explains how to save a split béarnaise. Unfortunately, his advice will of no help to any unlucky diner who is served a curdled, runny [...]

Parisian bistro chefs invariably prefer the sizzling sear of a frypan to that of a charcoal or wood-fired grill for their steaks. They’re after the reddish sheen mastered by chef Thierry Laurent at the marvelous Le Bistrot Paul Bert. To ensure your steaks have that same caramelised lustre without a burned or blackened taste, be sure [...]