What Do You Think is Wrong with the Dalston Superstore Burger?

The bacon cheeseburger at the Dalston Superstore in theultra- cool heart of East London sure is tall. Maybe the skyscraper burger is the bar’s idea of New York style.

Whatever.

I identified no fewer than eight serious problems with the one I ordered medium-rare. [Read more...]

Is Isaac McHale the next big thing?

Were a CV a sure indicator of a chef’s potential, as only gullible restaurateurs and food critics are led to believe, then Isaac McHale would already be counting his Michelin stars. 3 weeks shy of 30 and 3 months from running his own kitchen for the first time at autumn arrival Elliot’s Borough Market, the Glaswegian has already held positions at Tom Aikens and The Ledbury in London, Marque in Sydney, Momofuku Ssam Bar in New York and, most opportunely, Noma in Copenhagen, named World’s Best Restaurant in April. This month he began cooking preview Friday night dinners at Elliot’s in the Park, a pop-up at the Pavilion Cafe in East London’s Victoria Park: 5 courses, 5 wines, £50. [Read more...]

At London’s Pizza East, love is in the air pockets

pizza east bubbleWho knows why an April breeze never remains?
Why stars in the trees hide when it rains?
Love comes along, casting a spell
Will it sing you a song?
Will it say a farewell? Who can tell?

Could the great lyricist Johnny Mercer have had pizza in mind when he matched these lines about love’s uncertainties to a Hoagy Carmichael melody?  The fatalism in the song How Little We Know reflects my own doubts ever since I fell madly in love, almost nine hours ago, with the pizza at Pizza East, a two-day-old restaurant in the Tea Building (56 Shoreditch High Street, London – see map. Tel 020 7729 1888). [Read more...]

Hats off to Gwilym Davies – 2009 World Barista Champion

Gwilym Davies - 2009 World Barista ChampionWorld Barista Champion Gwilym Davies at Whitecross Street kioskWhenever in London you can congratulate 2009 British and now World Barista Champion Gwilym Davies in person – and have a great coffee while you’re at it. Gwilym pulls his award-winning shots from an espresso cart parked at the Whitecross Street Market on weekdays (mornings through lunch) and behind the Columbia Road Flower Market on Sunday mornings.