diners on coffee-roasting Caravan never left with a bad taste

The concept of a restaurant that roasts its own coffee beans would turn few heads in the capital of New Zealand. Wellington now counts more coffee roasters than surfing instructors amongst its population of 180,000.

“Actually there are no good waves in Wellington,” says chef Miles Kirby (at right in photo), co-owner of Caravan, a new restaurant roastery on London’s Exmouth Market.

“Bit cold in Wellington for surfing,” adds Chris Ammermann, Kirby’s partner and fellow expat.

Who knew?

Perhaps thwarted in their search for surging breakers between the banks of the Thames, Kirby and Ammermann have caught another kind of Antipodean-ridden wave – the third wave of coffee in London. They’ve installed a 10-kilo coffee roaster in the basement of Caravan, making it the first restaurant in the UK to also practice trade as a coffee roaster, shop, retailer and wholesaler. [Read more...]

#PizzaTuesday celebrates a taste of Trianon at Santoré

The connection between the London restaurant/pizzeria Santoré and the legendary Naples pizzeria Trianon da Ciro is unsubstantiated and at best tenuous. The quality of the pizza, however, does not lie. [Read more...]

Letter to the critic who hated the bread at Moro

Dear Andy Hayler,

I stumbled upon your review of Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1), which was reprinted at myvillage.com, and had great difficulty digesting your description of its bread as “poor, too airy, floury and lacking salt”. The hardest part for me to chew was the too-airy bit. My recurring complaint about the breads at London bakeries and restaurants is that they’re not airy enough. Neither are they chewy, coarse or crusty, the way I expect artisanal, rustic, hand-kneaded breads to be, the way Moro’s exceptional sourdough is. I accept that the English, like most Americans, are accustomed to soft, squishy, fine-textured breads, but I’d hoped that well-travelled food writers like yourself would stand up for air pockets, educate readers and influence taste. [Read more...]