London

Meet the Pizzas: 2018 London Pizza Festival

The 800 pizza-loving Londoners who attend the 2018 London Pizza Festival, which returns to Borough Market Sunday May 20th, will not have to settle for just one or two of the featured pizzas and forgo the rest. They'll be served quarter-pizza slices of all 6! The only...

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Slinging Slices of Pizza in London’s West End

  Three new fast-casual restaurants bring pizza-by-the-slice to Charing Cross road in Central London. Here are my early takes based on single visits to NY FOLD, Fornetto and Vico. NY FOLD The New Yorkese way to attack a triangular slice cut from a large pizza is...

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Acme Coffee Cups: An Icon as Plain as Can Be

If there's a lesson to be learned from the Looney Tunes Road Runner animated cartoons it's this:A-C-M-E spells doom. To help catch his elusive prey Wile E. Coyote keeps putting his faith in the latest contraption manufactured by the Acme Corporation. The...

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Alexis Gauthier’s Smokin BurgerMonday

When Alexis Gauthier  accepted my challenge to create a one-off burger for the January 27th BurgerMonday at Andrew's Gray's Inn greasy spoon I assumed he would reinvent, deconstruct, Frenchify or otherwise gastronomise the American classic. But the chef at Gauthier...

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Pizza Pilgrims Think Out of Box & Into Pan

"I have something for you," said Londoner James Elliot, one of the Pizza Pilgrims behind the pizza van and insanely popular pizzeria of that name. "I'd like to you take it home and test it." I assumed the white pizza box Elliot handed me contained a pizza, albeit a...

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The Single Cut Burger: A Cut Above All Else

[slider_pro id="52"]  You don't beat Josh Ozersky, the New Yorker who wrote the book on The Hamburger, at his own game. So when Richard Turner invited Fred Smith and I to compete against Josh in a NYLon Burger-Off at the Meatopia UK Meat Festival in September we...

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The Hamburg Hamburger Returns to London

The creator of the historic Hamburg Hamburger has accepted my invitation to bring it back to London to compete in the 3-4 November @BurgerMonday #LondonBurgerBash at Camden Town Brewery In October 2012 German chef Oliver Trific travelled from his Hamburg house to a...

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Shake Shack’s in London & So’s the Meyer Touch

Back in the early days of the Union Square Cafe, any difficulty first-time diners had reconciling the New York restaurant's accolades with its informality rarely lasted through dinner. With a comprehensive approach to attentive service that would become his signature,...

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Top 10 Fish and Chips in London

When the batter coats a fresh cod fillet in a single layer and the frying time, temperature and oil are right, the fish effectively steams within its crisp golden shell. The hidden treasure – firm, glistening flakes of pearly white cod – distinguishes my picks for Top...

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Pizza Good Enough for Rome but not London

What a shame Datte Foco didn't have a more central location. Or a more stylish look. Or a more hospitable welcome for the stroller mums of Stoke Newington. Or more business savvy. Or more of a story to sell to the food media. All it had was superb Roman-style pizza al...

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Codsmacked by Fish Bone’s twice-cooked fillet

My punishing quest for the best fish and chips in London hit a new low on a return visit to Fish Bone, a much-praised chippie on Cleveland Street in Central London. At lunchtime there is always a queue. When the young man in a hygienic trilby hat (right) served me the...

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Taking Your Salt Beef As It Comes

In an era when cured pig back is more chic than caviar and the once prized but hopelessly lean fillet (filet mignon) cut may soon be sold off for scrap it's hard to remember back to a time when fat was a four-letter word. Seek out any good Old English dictionary and...

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1+1=3 at London’s new Electric Diner

A single cheeseburger at the Electric Diner contains two patties; a double cheeseburger, three patties. The George Osborne arithmetic is a Christmas gift to London from Brendan Sodikoff, chef/owner of Chicago's Au Cheval diner. (Au cheval is French for "on horseback"...

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Fifty Shades of Grey

[slider_pro id="25"]   The slideshow above contains images of three burgers each ordered medium-rare at Bukowski, an ambitious burger grill squeezed into a shipping container on the upper level of Boxpark in London's Shoreditch.  The third burger was a...

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Is The Sea Shell London Legend or London Myth?

Search online for the best fish and chips in London and you're sure to find several first-page references to The Sea Shell of Lisson Grove. Rarely is the praise on review sites so unanimous. Just look at the intros from the toptable.co.uk and timeout.com reviews:...

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What’s Better than Toast & Jam?

On a Sunday? Nothing. Nothing is better than toast and jam, if it's slices of the hand-mixed pain de compagne from Ben Mackinnon's E5 Bakehouse that go in the toaster and nearly any combo from Lillie O'Brien's London Borough of Jam spread over 'em. It goes without...

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Seven Degrees of Separation

It is perhaps unfair of me to fault Mother Flipper for slightly overcooking their burgers, missing by less than a minute the liftoff from the flat-top griddle to juicy medium rare. This has happened twice, first in February at its original home ground at Brockley...

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The Best £1.70 Steamed Burger in London

Amongst several tiny outlets for baozi – Chinese steamed buns – along Newport Court, near the Leicester Square tube station in London's Chinatown, only the pork bun from the takeaway bun stall operated by Yang Guang Supermarket looks, feels and eats like a burger. A...

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Is it Kosher for Mishkin’s Not To Be Kosher?

Most of the grievances from the kibbitzers of Covent Garden boil down to Mishkin's authenticity deficit. The latest theme restaurant to get the Russell Norman touch (think da Polpo, Polpetto, Spuntino) is less the great Jewish deli they wished it to be than the...

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Duke Ellington: King of Jazz & Gluttony

The three-part profile of jazz great Duke Ellington written by Richard O.Boyer for The New Yorker in 1944 isn't just one of the greatest musical portraits ever written for a magazine. "The Hot Back" is a classic in food and travel writing, too, a tell-all from a then...

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Princess Burger Transformed Into Prince Meatloaf

Come mid-August I welcome a glass of pink wine or pink lemonade for cool refreshment. But oddly I'm no happy camper when my Provence rosé tastes like old-fashioned lemonade, or when my freshly squeezed lemonade is no sweeter or pulpier than a dry rosé. I'm funny that...

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