Search online for the best fish and chips in London and you’re sure to find several first-page references to The Sea Shell of Lisson Grove. Rarely is the praise on review sites so unanimous. [Read more...]
Is The Sea Shell London Legend or London Myth?
23 April 2012 By 13 Comments
What’s Better than Toast & Jam?
On a Sunday? Nothing.
Nothing is better than toast and jam, if it’s slices of the hand-mixed pain de compagne from Ben Mackinnon’s E5 Bakehouse that go in the toaster and nearly any combo from Lillie O’Brien’s London Borough of Jam spread over ‘em.
22 April 2012 By Leave a Comment
When 5 Napkins are not Enough
Lucky Chip's Drips
@BabyFoodish is unimpressed.
"Hey, I have an idea..."
21 April 2012 By 2 Comments
Seven Degrees of Separation
It is perhaps unfair of me to fault Mother Flipper for slightly overcooking their burgers, missing by less than a minute the liftoff from the flat-top griddle to juicy medium rare. This has happened twice, first in February at its original home ground at Brockley Market in Southeast London and again yesterday at its Eat Street debut behind Kings Cross Station.
In the US you wouldn’t expect short order cooks at diners, truck stops and burger stands to make the distinction between pale and deep pink, especially burgers below the 5-ounce and 4-dollar barriers. So why hold their UK counterparts to a higher standard? [Read more...]
18 April 2012 By 3 Comments
Is it Kosher for Mishkin’s Not To Be Kosher?
Most of the grievances from the kibbitzers of Covent Garden boil down to Mishkin’s authenticity deficit. The latest theme restaurant to get the Russell Norman touch (think da Polpo, Polpetto, Spuntino) is less the great Jewish deli they wished it to be than the Jewish-themed cocktail diner the big cheese of small plates willed it to be. Forget gefilte fish: the most criminal oversight, given the concept, is a drinks menu with no borscht martini. [Read more...]
8 January 2012 By 7 Comments
Belgian Chef Viki Geunes Lays It All Out on The Table at Galleria Illy
“Spain,” Belgian chef Viki Geunes told a group of London foodies at the Galleria Illy, “is more technique and less product. Whatever I do must add value to the product.”
By evoking Spain the two-star Michelin chef at ‘t Zilte in Antwerp was asserting his opposition less to the contemporary cuisine of an entire nation than that of its most famous chef, Ferran Adrià. And by aligning himself instead with “the Nordic kitchen” and its obsession with exceptional vegetables from local producers and small farms he had one particular Nordic kitchen in mind, Rene Redzepi’s Noma. [Read more...]
26 September 2011 By 2 Comments
For Galleria Illy Tea Talk, Didier Jumeau-Lafond of Dammann Frères Brews Cup of Anti-Snob Snobbism
“There’s no good tea, there’s no bad tea,” Didier Jumeau-Lafond of Dammann Frères, the exclusive Parisian sellers of 3,500 fine teas, told the 13 September gathering at the Galleria Illy pop-up. “There is just one tea, the one you like.” [Read more...]
21 September 2011 By 2 Comments
