One shortcut to following the global coffee scene is to track the movements of Tim Styles, such is the Australian barista’s knack for turning up at seminal shops at the right time. He’s worked stints at Ray Cafe in Melbourne, Joe the Art of Coffee in New York, Flat White in London, Intelligentsia in Venice (California) and Penny University, the pop-up brew bar in London’s Shoreditch which popped down on the 30th of July. [Read more...]
A truly great burger, whatever its proportions and however tidy its construction, is a perilous proposition. That this sandwich-in-the-round sits not only on a bun but also on the brink of greasy collapse is fundamental to its gratification.
How much heat did I, a native New Yorker and food critic for the hometown Daily News, take for insisting that the pastrami at the LA delicatessen Langer’s was superior to anything in New York? My sanity, as much as my judgment, was called into question when LA Times critic S. Irene Virbila nominated Langer’s for a 2001 James Beard Award and I, then the New York rep of the Restaurant Awards Committee, championed the motion. The late R.W. Apple, Jr thought one of two things needed to happen, fast: either I needed to get professional help or he needed to get to Langer’s. My redemption arrived in the 19 August 2002 edition of the New Yorker, with Nora Ephron writing that Langer’s served “the best hot pastrami sandwich in the world.” [Read more...]