Until this week I assumed the appearance of mozzarella polka dots on Neapolitan-style pizzas was an unintended consequence of using the wrong cheese or handling the right cheese improperly. But groundbreaking London pizza merchants like Franco Manca and Pizza...
mozzarella di bufala
The Straight DOP on Mozzarella & Margherita
Order a Margherita at the best pizzerias of Naples and you typically get a pizza topped with fior di latte, a mozzarella made from cow's milk. Don't believe any Neapolitan who tells you the only mozzarella his brethren will tolerate on a pizza is from the milk of...
At London’s Pizza East, love is in the air pockets
Who knows why an April breeze never remains? Why stars in the trees hide when it rains? Love comes along, casting a spell Will it sing you a song? Will it say a farewell? Who can tell? Could the great lyricist Johnny Mercer have had pizza in mind when he matched these...
Gourmet & dismay at London’s Real Food Festival
I spent 4 hours on Friday at the opening day of the Real Food Festival at London's Earls Court Exhibition Centre, seeking the meaning of "real" food, which I think we are all supposed to prefer to "unreal" food. I know I do. The organisers weren't much help. They...
My first – and last – pizza made with mozzarella from British buffaloes
My new discovery at the Islington Farmers' Market this past Sunday was organic British mozzarella di bufala from Higher Alham Farm, Shepton Mallet, Somerset. The suggestion of buffalo mozzarella from Cheddar cheese country appealed to me. Hadn't Chris Arnot written...