No Coat, No Table

My wife, our baby and I were patiently waiting fourth, fifth and fifth-and-a-quarter on the line to place an order at the Columbus location of Joe the Art of Coffee, a busy coffee shop near both the real and fictional Upper West Side apartments of Jerry Seinfeld. When a table opened up I told my wife, a polite Englishwoman, to grab the table and sit down with the baby. I’d get the coffees. But just as my wife was laying claim to the table the bored sophomore who was standing ahead of us on line stepped in her way, insisting she was already sitting at that empty table.

In all my years of living in New York and abroad never before had a seen a mortal who was able to stand in line and sit at table at the same time. [Read more...]

The Next Great New York Burger?

5 five napkin burgerMy recent visit to New York coincided with another bout of unease for Andy D’Amico, the chef/co-owner of 5 Napkin Burger as well as Nice Matin, the Mediterranean restaurant where he first introduced the drippy burger (pictured above) with an ensemble of melted Gruyère, caramelized onions and rosemary aïoli for which four napkins are not enough.

5 Napkin built its reputation as well as its growing fleet of burger brasseries – the fourth 5 Napkin opens in Boston in a month and a fifth in Miami Beach’s South Beach soon after – on chuck meat. Even so, the introspective D’Amico was thinking the unthinkable: chucking some of the chuck. [Read more...]

Diners, Like Liquids, Take Shape of their Container

parsnip soup with foie gras at m wells diner
According to the ground rules of the restaurant repertoire you’re not supposed to find a dish like this…

escargot bone marrow m. wells diner
…in a place like this…m. wells diner long island city new york

Yet when Hugue Dufour, the French-Canadian chef-proprietor of the M. Wells Diner in Queens, New York, asked me if I’d ordered his silky-smooth parsnip soup with the sautéed foie gras topper I was surprised anyone would regard this accessory as optional. [Read more...]

#BurgerMondaySwarm Invades New York


In December I took my @BurgerMonday meatup group across the pond to New York for a pre-Christmas swarm at 4food, a new burger joint devoted to de-junking fast food. [Read more...]

Eataly Feeds NY’s Italianissimo Complex

woman puts on lipstick with lavazza calendar girl carla bruni as backdropTo shop Eataly‘s 50,000 square feet of Italian foods you must first pass through the Lavazza espresso bar just inside the marketplace’s Fifth Avenue entrance. The backdrop to this virtual Via Veneto of consumed – and consuming – New Yorkers and tourists, many of them Italian, is a collage of Lavazza calendar girls. You see Il Postino‘s Maria Grazia Cucinotta, the embodiment of 1990s Italianissimo, ogled by the espresso sippers of the Caffè Tripoli (March-April ’96). A few months later she bears the weight, such as it is, of co-Miss July-August Federica Ripamonte on her shoulders without spilling a drop of precious coffee – neither hers, which I imagine to be a frothy double macchiato, nor Federica’s. [Read more...]

Too Much Lobster on a Luke’s Roll?

Do Luke Holden and Ben Conniff stuff too much fresh Maine lobster meat into the lobster rolls at their New York seafood eatery Luke’s Lobster? Judging from the photo above you’d have to say yes: 4 ounces (113 grams) of lobster chunks from 5 to 6 claws is simply too much meat to fit into a split-top bun. [Read more...]

Goodbye to Penny University, Hello to Tim Styles

melbourne, new york, london, los angelesOne shortcut to following the global coffee scene is to track the movements of Tim Styles, such is the Australian barista’s knack for turning up at seminal shops at the right time. He’s worked stints at Ray Cafe in Melbourne, Joe the Art of Coffee in New York, Flat White in London, Intelligentsia in Venice (California) and Penny University, the pop-up brew bar in London’s Shoreditch which popped down on the 30th of July. [Read more...]

Biteseeing in New York: Isaac’s Eatinerary of Must-Try Restaurants & Bars

We’re always keen to know where chefs choose to dine, ostensibly because they know more about food and what goes on in restaurants than we do. But isn’t it the chefs’ inexperience, as much as their expertise, that makes their dining eatineraries so compelling? With the exception of globetrotting figureheads they generally work mealtime hours. Starved for dining-out opportunities they are desperate to make the most of each one, unlike jaded food critics who can seem equally determined to make the worst of each meal out. [Read more...]