The longest hour of my life consisted of 60 interminable minutes waiting for a couple of slices at Di Fara Pizza in Brooklyn. Years before he turned 80, pizza legend Dom DeMarco worked at a pace all his own. On a return visit earlier this month I didn't watch the...
New York
The Insider’s Iced Coffee Even the Insiders Don’t Know About
Seconds after giving a long hello hug to my dear mother I raced to the Chelsea location of Blue Bottle Coffee, under the High Line at West 15th Street, to try my first zinger. Such are my priorities when back home in New York: Family first, coffee close behind. The...
No Coat, No Table
My wife, our baby and I were patiently waiting fourth, fifth and fifth-and-a-quarter on the line to place an order at the Columbus location of Joe the Art of Coffee, a busy coffee shop near both the real and fictional Upper West Side apartments of Jerry Seinfeld. When...
The Next Great New York Burger?
My recent visit to New York coincided with another bout of unease for Andy D'Amico, the chef/co-owner of 5 Napkin Burger as well as Nice Matin, the Mediterranean restaurant where he first introduced the drippy burger (pictured above) with an ensemble of melted...
Diners, Like Liquids, Take Shape of their Container
According to the ground rules of the restaurant repertoire you're not supposed to find a dish like this......in a place like this... Yet when Hugue Dufour, the French-Canadian chef-proprietor of the M. Wells Diner in Queens, New York, asked me if I'd ordered his...
#BurgerMondaySwarm Invades New York
In December I took my @BurgerMonday meatup group across the pond to New York for a pre-Christmas swarm at 4food, a new burger joint devoted to de-junking fast food. I was fearful that 4food might get wind of my plans and obstruct or otherwise thwart the swarm, but...
Eataly Feeds NY’s Italianissimo Complex
To shop Eataly's 50,000 square feet of Italian foods you must first pass through the Lavazza espresso bar just inside the marketplace's Fifth Avenue entrance. The backdrop to this virtual Via Veneto of consumed – and consuming – New Yorkers and tourists, many of them...
Too Much Lobster on a Luke’s Roll?
Do Luke Holden and Ben Conniff stuff too much fresh Maine lobster meat into the lobster rolls at their New York seafood eatery Luke's Lobster? Judging from the photo above you'd have to say yes: 4 ounces (113 grams) of lobster chunks from 5 to 6 claws is simply too...
Goodbye to Penny University, Hello to Tim Styles
One shortcut to following the global coffee scene is to track the movements of Tim Styles, such is the Australian barista's knack for turning up at seminal shops at the right time. He's worked stints at Ray Cafe in Melbourne, Joe the Art of Coffee in New York, Flat...
Biteseeing in New York: Isaac’s Eatinerary of Must-Try Restaurants & Bars
We're always keen to know where chefs choose to dine, ostensibly because they know more about food and what goes on in restaurants than we do. But isn't it the chefs' inexperience, as much as their expertise, that makes their dining eatineraries so compelling? With...
Stumptown retrosexuals do great coffee
Stumptown Coffee Roasters, Ace Hotel, 18 West 29th Street, New York
el doble my double burger benchmark
The El Doble at Txikito (pronounced "chic-kee-toe") Â - a Basque restaurant in New York's Chelsea. The chubby double burger is draped with smoked sheep's milk cheese and peppery salsa especial. The version seen above was requested to be on the rare side of...
Being drunk is not an excuse to eat crap
When I've put London food obsessives in the position of defending their high praise for the rubbery salt beef at the Beigel Bake on Brick Lane they've invariably blamed their lapse in good taste on drunkenness. It's open 24 hours. It's quick. It's cheap. It's filling....
Scoring the food at new Yankee Stadium
The purpose of my visit to the new Yankee Stadium had little to do with a baseball game. I was there to survey the food options and rate perhaps a dozen of them. I thought this would be a valuable service for fans who didn't wish to subject their bodies to the very...
Detouring for the indelible delight
When travelling across nations or neighborhoods I revel in the long detour for the indelible delight. My willingness to wreck itineraries and rile companions for a nibble of potentially life-changing apple strudel partly explains my reputation amongst those who know...