New York

Music to Make Pizza By

The longest hour of my life consisted of 60 interminable minutes waiting for a couple of slices at Di Fara Pizza in Brooklyn. Years before he turned 80, pizza legend Dom DeMarco worked at a pace all his own. On a return visit earlier this month I didn't watch the...

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No Coat, No Table

My wife, our baby and I were patiently waiting fourth, fifth and fifth-and-a-quarter on the line to place an order at the Columbus location of Joe the Art of Coffee, a busy coffee shop near both the real and fictional Upper West Side apartments of Jerry Seinfeld. When...

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The Next Great New York Burger?

My recent visit to New York coincided with another bout of unease for Andy D'Amico, the chef/co-owner of 5 Napkin Burger as well as Nice Matin, the Mediterranean restaurant where he first introduced the drippy burger (pictured above) with an ensemble of melted...

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#BurgerMondaySwarm Invades New York

In December I took my @BurgerMonday meatup group across the pond to New York for a pre-Christmas swarm at 4food, a new burger joint devoted to de-junking fast food. I was fearful that 4food might get wind of my plans and obstruct or otherwise thwart the swarm, but...

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Eataly Feeds NY’s Italianissimo Complex

To shop Eataly's 50,000 square feet of Italian foods you must first pass through the Lavazza espresso bar just inside the marketplace's Fifth Avenue entrance. The backdrop to this virtual Via Veneto of consumed – and consuming – New Yorkers and tourists, many of them...

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Too Much Lobster on a Luke’s Roll?

Do Luke Holden and Ben Conniff stuff too much fresh Maine lobster meat into the lobster rolls at their New York seafood eatery Luke's Lobster? Judging from the photo above you'd have to say yes: 4 ounces (113 grams) of lobster chunks from 5 to 6 claws is simply too...

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Goodbye to Penny University, Hello to Tim Styles

One shortcut to following the global coffee scene is to track the movements of Tim Styles, such is the Australian barista's knack for turning up at seminal shops at the right time. He's worked stints at Ray Cafe in Melbourne, Joe the Art of Coffee in New York, Flat...

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el doble my double burger benchmark

The El Doble at Txikito (pronounced "chic-kee-toe")  - a Basque restaurant in New York's Chelsea. The chubby double burger is draped with smoked sheep's milk cheese and peppery salsa especial. The version seen above was requested to be on the rare side of...

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Being drunk is not an excuse to eat crap

When I've put London food obsessives in the position of defending their high praise for the rubbery salt beef at the Beigel Bake on Brick Lane they've invariably blamed their lapse in good taste on drunkenness. It's open 24 hours. It's quick. It's cheap. It's filling....

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Scoring the food at new Yankee Stadium

The purpose of my visit to the new Yankee Stadium had little to do with a baseball game. I was there to survey the food options and rate perhaps a dozen of them. I thought this would be a valuable service for fans who didn't wish to subject their bodies to the very...

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Detouring for the indelible delight

When travelling across nations or neighborhoods I revel in the long detour for the indelible delight. My willingness to wreck itineraries and rile companions for a nibble of potentially life-changing apple strudel partly explains my reputation amongst those who know...

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