"There's no good tea, there's no bad tea," Didier Jumeau-Lafond of Dammann Frères, the exclusive Parisian sellers of 3,500 fine teas, told the 13 September gathering at the Galleria Illy pop-up. "There is just one tea, the one you like." It was a good line, infusing...
Paris
Review of my Paris local, before bistro was named world’s 11th best restaurant
I wrote this review of Le Chateaubriand for bloomberg in Feb 2007. Back then it was not yet the world's 11th best restaurant, but merely the local bistro, albeit a magical one, in my Paris neighbourhood. The only thing "11th" about it was the arrondissement. Bistro Is...
Being drunk is not an excuse to eat crap
When I've put London food obsessives in the position of defending their high praise for the rubbery salt beef at the Beigel Bake on Brick Lane they've invariably blamed their lapse in good taste on drunkenness. It's open 24 hours. It's quick. It's cheap. It's filling....