The Next Great New York Burger?

5 five napkin burgerMy recent visit to New York coincided with another bout of unease for Andy D’Amico, the chef/co-owner of 5 Napkin Burger as well as Nice Matin, the Mediterranean restaurant where he first introduced the drippy burger (pictured above) with an ensemble of melted Gruyère, caramelized onions and rosemary aïoli for which four napkins are not enough.

5 Napkin built its reputation as well as its growing fleet of burger brasseries – the fourth 5 Napkin opens in Boston in a month and a fifth in Miami Beach’s South Beach soon after – on chuck meat. Even so, the introspective D’Amico was thinking the unthinkable: chucking some of the chuck. [Read more...]

Bistro steak with Béarnaise sauce

steak in skilletParisian bistro chefs invariably prefer the sizzling sear of a frypan to that of a charcoal or wood-fired grill for their steaks. They’re after the reddish sheen mastered by chef Thierry Laurent at the marvelous Le Bistrot Paul Bert. To ensure your steaks have that same caramelised lustre without a burned pan-fried bistro steakor blackened taste, be sure to:

• First warm the steaks to room temperature.
• Use a nonstick skillet so not much oil and butter are required.
• Use an oil with a high smoke point, such as soybean (soya), grapeseed, peanut (groundnut) or canola (rapeseed).
• Add the butter to the pan just before the steaks, not giving it time to brown. [Read more...]