Back in the early days of the Union Square Cafe, any difficulty first-time diners had reconciling the New York restaurant's accolades with its informality rarely lasted through dinner. With a comprehensive approach to attentive service that would become his signature,...
According to the ground rules of the restaurant repertoire you're not supposed to find a dish like this......in a place like this... Yet when Hugue Dufour, the French-Canadian chef-proprietor of the M. Wells Diner in Queens, New York, asked me if I'd ordered his...
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