Diners, Like Liquids, Take Shape of their Container

parsnip soup with foie gras at m wells diner
According to the ground rules of the restaurant repertoire you’re not supposed to find a dish like this…

escargot bone marrow m. wells diner
…in a place like this…m. wells diner long island city new york

Yet when Hugue Dufour, the French-Canadian chef-proprietor of the M. Wells Diner in Queens, New York, asked me if I’d ordered his silky-smooth parsnip soup with the sautéed foie gras topper I was surprised anyone would regard this accessory as optional. [Read more…]