In an era when cured pig back is more chic than caviar and the once prized but hopelessly lean fillet (filet mignon) cut may soon be sold off for scrap it's hard to remember back to a time when fat was a four-letter word. Seek out any good Old English dictionary and...
The restaurant at Fergus Henderson's new St John Hotel stands as a gently lit oasis of white and stainless-steel functionality amid the glare and sleaze of after-hours Leicester Square. The grilled skirt steak with beef dripping chips, herb-shallot mustard and cress...
To source a generously fatty blend of the finest, private reserve 100% Perthshire Black Angus Beef for the BurgerMondayPopup presented by young&foodish in London on 24 January, James Lowe, the chef at St John Bread & Wine, consulted with butcher Darragh O'Shea at his...
If you've caught up with London's The Meatwagon you may have noticed something different riding on its bacon cheeseburgers. In place of bacon rashers (strips) Yianni Papoutsis piggybacks his beef burgers with a griddle-fried patty of chopped boiled bacon. The bacon...
My interest in The Ivy had nothing to do with stargazing at that famous celebrity haunt in London's West End. I had asked Dino Joannides, whose passion is gastronomy and not astronomy, to meet me there for lunch to help answer a single question: Was The Ivy burger...
Invited by MasterChef's John Torode to try the house burger at his new bar and grill on behalf of burgermonday I sunk into this two-hander with hope and hunger. The LUXE burger proved to be an irresistible hunk oozing beefy, cheesy, yolky juices with every bite....
The next youngandfoodish Steak Frites Tasting Dinner will be Tuesday 25 May in the private dining room of Racine Restaurant in London. The menu will again feature three steak classics – onglet aux échalottes, filet au poivre, côte de boeuf - prepared by chef Henry...
Because steaks firm up as they cook, one way to test them for doneness is the poke test. By lightly pressing the meat with your forefinger you can get a feel for how done it is and how much longer it needs to cook. A rare steak will be soft; a medium-rare steak,...
The El Doble at Txikito (pronounced "chic-kee-toe") Â - a Basque restaurant in New York's Chelsea. The chubby double burger is draped with smoked sheep's milk cheese and peppery salsa especial. The version seen above was requested to be on the rare side of...
The image I chose for the twitter profile of @burgermonday is a photograph of a burger that is both remarkable and British. Why remarkable? Why British? That yellow goop you see dipping down irresistibly from the sides of the Rivington Grill burger is not merely...
If you order a burger and the server pivots away without asking you how you want it cooked, that is already a bad omen. Restaurants that don't elicit doneness orders may not think a burger is worth the bother. (A waiver for the doneness designation should only be...
The voters have spoken: There is no love for steak frites so rare as the one seared in memory by @the_rts. And just why does the winner of the youngandfoodish why-do-you-love-steak-frites competition love steak frites? @the_rts: #steakfrites juices flowing, meat's...
5 finalists have been chosen for the why do you love steak frites? competition. The winner and a guest will be invited by chef Henry Harris to the 22nd March premiere of the youngandfoodish steak frites tasting dinners at Racine in London. If the winner cannot attend...
Chef Henry Harris of London's Racine babies a côte de boeuf thick enough to stand up on its side in the pan. He bastes the double rib chop from O'Shea's of Knightsbridge with butter as the aged beef's marbling self-bastes its interior with fat. Why do you love...
In part 4 of Steak Frites - Mastering the Cuts, Darragh O'Shea, he of the great London butcher shop O'Shea's of Knightsbridge, pulls out his finest grass-fed, dry-aged beef and explains how to recognise top quality by colour and cut. His personal favourite amongst the...
In part 4 of Steak Frites - Mastering the Cuts, an empathetic Henry Harris of Racine feels the pain of any cook, home or professional, who's experienced béarnaise anxiety syndrome. He explains how to save a split béarnaise. Unfortunately, his advice will of no help to...
In part 3 of Steak Frites - Mastering the Cuts, Henry Harris of Racine Restaurant stresses that the rich, almost syrupy sauce in which his pepper-crusted showcase steak sits should not be likened to brandied butter or a flavoured stock. Rather, a proper filet au...
In the second part of steak frites - mastering the cuts, Henry Harris reveals the shalls and shall nots of onglet aux échalottes. Onglet, a butcher's cut, may also be called skirt, hanger or, if it's the prized onglet from O'Shea's of Knightsbridge seen in this video,...
To enhance and celebrate our shared appreciation for an unsurpassed pairing of meat and potatoes, youngandfoodish launches steak frites - mastering the cuts, a series of 6 web videos featuring Racine chef Henry Harris, with meat by Darragh O'Shea of O'Shea's of...
Byron makes an eminently likeable burger. That the UK chain of hamburger restaurants uses a mix of rump, chuck and brisket from traceable, grass-fed, 21-day, 100% Aberdeen Angus beef makes for interesting reading while you're waiting for your burger to cook. But...
Picture a one-armed South Bank street performer juggling pumpkins while being sprayed from the Thames by a naked Duke of Edinburgh skidding by on a jet ski and you can begin to appreciate my astonishment upon seeing an elegant Knightsbridge woman walk out of  O'Shea's...
When the old hall of London's Borough Market was shut a month ago to facilitate construction of a new Thameslink train line into London Bridge station, the baker De Gustibus was one of four traders suddenly forced to give up their stalls. That was a devastating...
Is August a bad month for salt beef? I certainly hope so. For if the drop in form at two of London's very best salt beef purveyors is not due to seasonal disruptions, it isn't only my list of the top 5 salt beef sandwiches in London that will need to be overhauled....
One of the many cultural advantages of my move from the US to the UK is that it's been a cinch to avoid shopping malls. Nearly 5 years in London and I've only stepped inside a single mall, Brent Cross Shopping Centre – twice because I couldn't get a Genius Bar...
Salt beef, as New York-style corned beef is known in the UK, is a Jewish deli meat made from beef briskets cured in brine. The salt breaks down the tough brisket meat while letting its flavours emerge. Salt beef ought not be an exercise in aerobic mastication, as some...
When travelling across nations or neighborhoods I revel in the long detour for the indelible delight. My willingness to wreck itineraries and rile companions for a nibble of potentially life-changing apple strudel partly explains my reputation amongst those who know...
UPDATE: VERY SORRY TO REPORT THE NOSH BAR HAS CLOSED FOR BUSINESS. UpTHE NOSH BAR is back in lights on Great Windmill Street and that alone is cause for celebration, if not a detour from New York, Newcastle or even New Oxford Street. But wait: surprise of surprises,...
If I can prevent just one of Brick Lane's nocturnal foragers from yielding to the temptation of a Beigel Bake hot salt beef sandwich my move from New York to London will have proven a success. I appreciate that the Beigel Bake is a London institution, a revered relic...
Looking at them now these almost look more like Mark Rothko paintings than hamburgers.
When I ordered my bespoke burger rare at the Santa Monica  (California) location of The Counter, my waitress asked, "Do you know what rare is?" Odd question, I thought, to be asking a native English speaker fluent in basic menu vocabulary. I nodded yes, missing my...
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