In Beauty, the Design Triennial Exhibition at the Cooper Hewitt in New York, curators Andrea Lipps and Ellen Lupton define “ethereal” as it relates to design:

Designers create forms that shape space, time, light, or air, sometimes defying permanence and weight in favor of ephemeral or fleeting effects. An object or building might exist in the space between or the space left behind more than in the thing itself.

Now, try substituting “pizza bakers” for “designers” in Lipps and Lupton’s first sentence and “a pizza” for “an object” in their second sentence and see how it reads:

The artistry of Franco Pepe, Gabriele Bonci, Ciro Salvo and other master pizzaioli is found not just in the thing we eat but also in the air, the bubbles, the spaces between.