Is Pizza by Heston at LHR Worth a Detour?

heston fornoTo try the wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizza “perfected” by Team Heston Blumenthal you must not be carrying any liquids, gels, creams or pastes in containers over 100ml. That’s because the pizza is served exclusively at The Perfectionists’ Cafe, Heston’s fast-food restaurant in London Heathrow Terminal 2.

Should you go out of your try Heston’s pizza? Yes, if that means choosing a flight departing from Terminal 2 rather than from another terminal or airport; no, if that entails booking a flight to nowhere only to gain access to this passengers’ pizzeria.

The pizzas are £10.75-12.75, which I find reasonable, given the excellent Italian ingredients. The soft crust is cooked to Neapolitan specs, albeit somewhat toned down: Lighter colouring and less puffiness around the cornicione (rim). I ordered the Enzo, a pizza named after the great Neapolitan pizza maestro Enzo Coccia, a friend of Heston who I assume acted as a consultant on this project. It is topped with cherry tomatoes, fresh Mozzarella di Bufala DOP, Buffalo ricotta and rocket (arugula).

heston enzo 500

If all the pizzas are on the same level as the Enzo The Perfectionists Cafe surely has one of the best airport pizza operations in Europe. To compare it with the best in the USA I’d recommend flying between London Heathrow Terminal 2 and Atlanta’s Hartsfield Jackson, home to Varasano’s.

But I would not suggest your making a special trip to try the Perfectionists’ pizza. It’s very good but not quite in the same league as London’s best Neapolitan pizzerias, most of which can be accessed without first removing your laptop from your bag.

1 Comment

  1. Helen

    Noooo! I was stuck in Atlanta airport for about 8 hours recently, and I didn’t know about Varasano’s. I am gutted.

    Reply

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