Bistro Is Cool for Dinner, Not So Hot for Lunch: Paris Dining

2007-02-01 03:58:20.510 GMT

Review by Daniel Young

Feb. 1 (Bloomberg) — Dinner and lunch at Le Chateaubriand, a
fashionable bistro in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, are like night
and day.

At night, globe lights cast a flattering amber glow over
walls painted eggshell white and deep maroon. Minimal flourish and
wattage provide a plain, soft-focused backdrop for the modern,
meticulously crafted plates of the French Basque chef-proprietor,
Inaki Aizpitarte.

A visit the day after is sobering, as it can be in Paris. The
food and presentation are so workmanlike, you might assume they
are by another chef: A capable one, sure, but not Aizpitarte.
Light cast through the casement storefront exposes seams,
wrinkles, tobacco-stained walls. Even Erwin and Franck, silky-
smooth servers except for the five-day stubble they maintain in
solidarity with Aizpitarte, somehow look less dark, less handsome.
Aizpitarte, 34, who took over Le Chateaubriand almost a year
ago, transformed it into a dining destination from a neighborhood
relic in a matter of weeks.

So flow the currents in a city whose culinary compass is
stuck on SW: Today the city’s most restless chefs are foraging the
rustic glories of Gascony and the Basque country, more than
Provence and the Rhone-Alpes, for inspiration. Though Aizpitarte
hails from the hottest corner of contemporary French gastronomy,
his riveting cooking defies regional affiliation.

Divine Dessert

He cultivates ideas from unimagined flavor relationships,
marrying tuna tartare to flash-seared foie gras in one exceptional
appetizer or squid ink to passion fruit in another. He ennobles
humble ingredients, substituting “La vache qui rit” (“The
Laughing Cow”) processed cheese for mascarpone in a divine
dessert cream for poached pears. Nothing feels forced or silly.

The dinner menu, great value at 33 euros ($42.60) for two
courses and 39 euros for three, lists three choices each for
starter, main course and dessert. When asked if this menu changed
from night to night, Franck, a suave, accommodating server, said
the already overloaded staff would be dead if it did. Even with
this short program they didn’t manage to keep the dishware warm.

Sometimes that isn’t an issue. In an Asian take on the French
classic oeuf en gelee, the egg yolk is ingeniously submerged in a
soy jelly and paired with tiny cubes of smoked eel. The yolk, once
pierced, slowly oozes but doesn’t spill richness into the almost-
solid jelly. The eel bits detonate upon contact, providing more
smoke, gram for gram, than TNT.

A Basque-ish appetizer alternative floats tender chipirones
(baby calamari) in garlicky black squid ink with black rice
(Italian Venere) to match. Brilliant.

Asian Influence

Among main courses, the Asian influence is notable in the
pollack (the North Atlantic fish the French call lieu jaune)
poached in a broth with winter greens and black trumpet mushrooms
and striped with wasabi. A beef duo sets pristine fillets beside a
woven ball of stringy, crusty, fatty, succulent oxtail.

The best finish may be an ironic commentary on a prevalent
fashion of Parisian patisserie, peppered chocolate. Whereas most
pastry chefs do theirs with piment d’Espelette, the French Basque
chili pepper, Aizpitarte forgoes the spicy warmth of his native
red powder for the natural sweetness of roasted red pepper
prepared as a dip for bittersweet chocolate bars.

Le Chateaubriand’s location is a Metro-map millimeter too far
west of the Parmentier-Oberkampf intersection to be labeled
trendy. The bobos (bourgeois bohemians) who clog its small dark-
wood tables and chairs with monochromic chic don’t mind. The buzz
is unmistakable, yet the mood is relaxed and casual.

Case in point: A reservation was accepted for 8 p.m., though
the staff meal didn’t finish until 20 minutes later. While few
repeat diners sit down earlier than 9 p.m., some meet a bit
earlier at the bar for pintxos (Basque for tapas) and a wine
listed on the slate board.

Small Producers

The bistro personalizes its selection of wines from small
producers doing grand things through natural means by featuring
the names of the vignerons themselves instead of their domains,
e.g. Jean-Franois Nicq, the maker of an organic, fruity Syrah from
the Languedoc-Roussillon, rather than his Domaine des Foulards
Rouges. Most bottles fall within the 20-35 euro bracket.

Returning to the matter of Le Chateaubriand’s split
personality, it could seem ungrateful to fault Aizpitarte and
partner Frederic Penau for trying to preserve their bistro’s soul
and our “sous” through their 14 euro lunches. Only in an honest
bistro do you find an oversize entrecote quite as fatty as theirs.

Still, it is necessary to warn lunch regulars who might
puzzle over fare rendered unrecognizable to them by the chef’s
nocturnal aspirations.

Le Chateaubriand, 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris. Tel.
+33-1-4357-4595

The Bloomberg Questions

How much? Dinner is 39 euros for three courses.
Sound levels? Parisian buzz.
Special feature? Breads from Au Levain du Marais.
Private room? No.
Date place? If you’re dating a foodie who wears black.
Will I go back? Yes.

(Daniel Young is a food critic for Bloomberg News. The
opinions expressed are his own.)

–Editor: Vines (jmr/fnn/bam)

• First warm the steaks to room temperature.
• Use a nonstick skillet so not much oil and butter are required.
• Use an oil with a high smoke point, such as soybean (soya), grapeseed, peanut (groundnut) or canola (rapeseed).
• Add the butter to the pan just before the steaks, not giving it time to brown.

This recipe for a pan-fried bistro steak with Béarnaise sauce, from The Bistros, Brasseries & Wine Bars of Paris, is an adaptation of Le Bistrot Pau Bert’s entrecôte grillé.

Makes 4 servings

4 rib, rib-eye or sirloin steaks, 3/4 inch thick, 8 to 10 oz (225-285g) each
4 tablespoons peanut (groundnut), soybean (soya) or grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Béarnaise sauce

1. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator 30 to 60 minutes before cooking them.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 2 large nonstick skillets over high heat until very hot. Drop 1 tablespoon butter in each pan, immediately add the steaks and sear for 3 minutes (for medium rare). Turn the steaks, season the cooked sides with salt and pepper and sear the uncooked sides for 3 minutes.
3. Transfer the steaks onto plates, season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with Béarnaise sauce and frites.