Dear Andy Hayler, I stumbled upon your review of Moro (34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1), which was reprinted at myvillage.com, and had great difficulty digesting your description of its bread as “poor, too airy, floury and lacking salt”. The hardest part for me to chew was the too-airy bit. My recurring complaint about the breads at London bakeries and restaurants is that they’re not airy enough. Neither are they chewy, coarse or crusty, the way I expect artisanal, rustic, hand-kneaded breads to be, the way Moro’s exceptional sourdough is. I accept that the English, like most Americans, are accustomed to soft, squishy, fine-textured breads, but I’d hoped that well-travelled food writers like yourself would stand up for air pockets, educate readers and influence taste. There is, however, one what if: What if my love for Moro’s sourdough is a function of my limited or very poorly chosen bread experiences since moving to the UK? Perhaps you know of rustic, vastly superior local loaves which compelled you to criticise Moro’s daily bread. If that is the case than I beg you to both pardon my ignorance and relieve me of it by providing a link to your list of London’s very best breads. Yours sincerely, Daniel Young