Five spicy mini-patties go into the Inegöl köfte “burger” (£4.50) at Ciz Biz, the Turkish grill in London’s Stoke Newington that takes its name from the sound – CHIZZZZZZZZZ – made as the finely minced lamb slowly sizzles over hot charcoal.

Given their flattened shape I can fool myself, if not you, into believing Ciz Biz’s Inegöl köftesi are mini-burgers rather than meatballs. In my book if it can’t roll it’s not a ball.

There is, however, no confusing that huge hunk of absurdly bready bread for a burger bun. But who needs another burger bun? Were Ciz Biz to ask me to suggest a bread alternative my first thought would be pide. Just think: Turkish…burger… pizza!

Ciz Biz, 4 Stoke Newington High Street, London N16 (see map)

slideshow photos by Paul Winch-Furness

Great fan though I am of Polpo, Polpetto and their new sibling sensation Spuntino, Wednesday the 13th of April was probably not the best night to be dining at any of these madly popular restaurants in London’s Soho. That’s because Spuntino head chef Rachel O’Sullivan and group chef Tom Oldroyd took that afternoon and night off to prepare 350+ meatballs for my SpagWednesday meatballs and spaghetti pop-up dinner (see photos above by food photographer Paul-Winch Furness) at the Gray’s Inn greasy spoon Andrew’s.

Rachel and Tom sent out heaping plates of spaghetti and meatballs with wedges of focaccia to 66 SpagWednesday twirling slurpers who did with it what SpagWednesday twirling slurpers do: They ate like kids and dined like princes.

Although some Italian purists insist you shouldn’t serve bread with pasta, piling starch upon starch, the Spuntino chefs concluded that the far greater crime would have been to leave a roomful of urbane Londoners with traces of homemade tomato sauce on their plates but no bread with which to mop it up. The only viable alternative would have been for diners to use their fingers, which, though hardly unheard of at young&foodish pop-ups, is perhaps not the preferred medium.

Don’t miss out on the fun at my next pop-up. Join the young&foodish community now and as a member you’ll receive email alerts about upcoming SpagWednesday and BurgerMonday pop-ups as well as advance booking privileges.