• First warm the steaks to room temperature.
• Use a nonstick skillet so not much oil and butter are required.
• Use an oil with a high smoke point, such as soybean (soya), grapeseed, peanut (groundnut) or canola (rapeseed).
• Add the butter to the pan just before the steaks, not giving it time to brown.

This recipe for a pan-fried bistro steak with Béarnaise sauce, from The Bistros, Brasseries & Wine Bars of Paris, is an adaptation of Le Bistrot Pau Bert’s entrecôte grillé.

Makes 4 servings

4 rib, rib-eye or sirloin steaks, 3/4 inch thick, 8 to 10 oz (225-285g) each
4 tablespoons peanut (groundnut), soybean (soya) or grapeseed oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Béarnaise sauce

1. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator 30 to 60 minutes before cooking them.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 2 large nonstick skillets over high heat until very hot. Drop 1 tablespoon butter in each pan, immediately add the steaks and sear for 3 minutes (for medium rare). Turn the steaks, season the cooked sides with salt and pepper and sear the uncooked sides for 3 minutes.
3. Transfer the steaks onto plates, season with salt and pepper and serve immediately with Béarnaise sauce and frites.