People sometimes need permission to like things, and they get the affirmation of that from friends and critics and from a general perception.

Diners might seek permission from friends, colleagues, mavens, foodies or, yes, paid food critics, to like a particular restaurant, chef, dish, recipe, trend, etc.  I know from personal experience that food critics themselves seek permission from their own networks of food experts (chefs, growers, artisans, culinary scholars, publicists) to like something new or unfamiliar, too. Without that validation they may be hesitant to extol an alien dish or an unknown chef.