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“There is no best restaurant in the world,” Rene Redzepi told me minutes after Noma, his Copenhagen restaurant, claimed that very title for the second year running at last night’s The San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards. “Here [London’s Guildhall] we have a solution which I will take.”

Redzepi was being modest, naturally, but he was also speaking to the subjectivity of taste and to the somewhat esoteric appeal of his foraging for culinary inspiration. Did he mind all the needling about, well, his pine needle garnishes, tree bark reductions and the like?

“It’s fine, it doesn’t bother me”, he replied. “People will disagree. There is no absolute truth.”