Mayfields may be a window box of a storefront East London restaurant treasured for deftly crafted small plates of boutique produce, meat and fish. Yet there was nothing dainty about the steakburger chef Matthew Young created for the January 13th BurgerMonday, was there (see below)?
 


 
Matthew’s initial inspiration, the acclaimed burger at Diner in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, served only as a departure point. His end burger was a true original drawing more on influences closer to home, with one innovation layered over another.

1. Bun

The sesame-seeded brioche was sourced from Bread Ahead, the London bakery and baking school opened at Borough Market by Matt Jones and Justin Gellatly. It marked the second BurgerMonday premiere of a Justin Gellatly burger bun: Three years earlier the buns Justin created at St John Bakery were showcased at a BurgerMonday by chefs James Lowe, Isaac McHale and Ben Greeno.

2. Beef

Matthew turned to a trusted supplier, Jorge Thomas of Swaledale Farms in West Yorkshire, and together they came up with a rich blend of three bistro steak cuts – flank, skirt, onglet – enriched with beef cheeks.

3. Cheese

When Beaufort, which Brillat-Savarin called “the prince of gruyères”, was melted over a patty the cheese’s nutty, butter character seemed to vanish before the chef’s eyes. His solution was to sit the Beaufort on the cut side of the top bun half instead and melt it under the salamander. Once the flipped and fitted atop the burger the cheese slowly dripped down over the toppings and patty.

4. Accessories

Lettuce, red onion, fresh mint, beet root, red miso-and-yellow mustard seed mayonnaise. The true revelations were the fresh mint, which enhanced the flavour of the beef (who knew mint was not only for lamb?) and the miso mustard mayo, with umami accent from the miso and some zip from the mustard.

5. Paper

Yes, paper. Karl Doering, one of Matthew’s sidemen, lined the griddles with parchment paper. The enormous benefit of this disposable, nonstick surface proved to be even, uniform cooking. As the burger grease collected in the parchment the patties were effectively fried in their own fat. Doering locked the patties in the deep pink zone between rare and medium-rare – the narrow space where outstanding burgers reside.

 
As the Mayfields burger was designed as a one-off I’m not sure we’ll ever it see again, sadly. (It is hoped Matthew will have second thoughts after he’s viewed the video and then third, fourth and fifth thoughts after he’s browsed Ian Sargent’s photos.) The surer bet is our seeing more burger chefs keeping the interior beef in the pink by frying their patties on parchment.

All photos by Ian Sargent.

The next youngandfoodish Steak Frites Tasting Dinner will be Tuesday 25 May in the private dining room of Racine Restaurant in London.

The menu will again feature three steak classics – onglet aux échalottes, filet au poivre, côte de boeuf – prepared by chef Henry Harris with the finest cuts of dry-aged, grass-fed beef selected by Darragh O’Shea of the great London butcher O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge. Each steak will be matched to a red wine selected by Peter Lowe of Berkmann Wine Cellars:

Space is limited. Book now.

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Mastering the cuts – watch the videos

Why do you love steak frites? – see the winning response in #steakfrites twitter competiton

In the second part of steak frites – mastering the cuts, Henry Harris reveals the shalls and shall nots of onglet aux échalottes. Onglet, a butcher’s cut, may also be called skirt, hanger or, if it’s the prized onglet from O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge seen in this video, “Steak O’Shea”.

If the video has made you salivate, as its producers intended, then it’s the perfect time to enter our “why do you love steak frites?” competition. The winner and his or her guest will be invited to the 22 March debut of the youngandfoodish steak frites tasting dinners at Racine Restaurant.