Recalling the prior night’s tasting of 10 exceptional Pepe pizzas I put the third-generation pizzaiolo on the spot:

How, I asked, does your pizza compare to that of your father and grandfather?

Pepe smiled uneasily, took a breath, then delivered the response heard in the video above.

The first takeaway is that Pepe knows how to duck a delicate question. But the larger and lasting lesson is as valid for a chef with three Michelin stars (see: Massimo Bottura Compresses His Grandmother) as it is for a pizza baker, or even a home cook:

We should respect, honour and learn from the past but we mustn’t be bound by it, nor by the nostalgic certainty that everything was much better then than it is now.

Think back, look forward.

The signature Franco Pepe pizza seen at the conclusion of the video is called Il sole nel piatto – “the sun in the plate”.
 

 
Its toppings – mozzarella di bufala, Piennolo del Vesuvio tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, anchovies and basil – are all local, conforming to the “km 0” (kilometre zero) designation created by the Italian Agricultural Union and backed by Pepe. Km 0 is a movement of locavores and is very much about thinking back and looking forward.

Designer Mike Abrahams

Mike Abrahams of the London design consultancy Abrahams attended several BurgerMondays and SpagWednesdays and was struck by the easy links made amongst strangers thrown together at shared tables. (What people will do to get their hands on a drippy, two-fisted bacon cheese burger!) In creating a pop-up logo Mike sought to represent young&foodish as the sum of these new connections.

Choosing to work with the Frankfurter Highlight font mostly because he couldn’t resist the foodish name Mike printed paper placemats each containing a single character from Y-O-U-N-G-&-F-O-O-D-I-S-H.

Photographer Paul Winch-Furness

At six consecutive pop-ups, including the 10th of November debut of WichThursday, the food and restaurant photographer Paul Winch-Furness took playful portraits of diners holding up – or goofing with – their lettered placements. He also encouraged the diners to self-assemble for group shots spelling out words, gibberish or fragments of either.

Designer Myra Murtagh

Mike’s colleague Myra Murtagh turned these images into two versions of the animated pop-up logo seen at the top of this website since November. The collaboration of Mike, Paul, Myra and all the obviously proud models who posed with their lettered placemats will run for just a few more weeks.

All photos by  Paul Winch-Furness

The next #PizzaTuesday is on the 23rd of March 7:30pm at Santore, Exmouth Market, London EC1. BOOK NOW.

Before Crossrail construction extinguished its brick oven and closed it for business, Spaccanapoli, off Oxford Street, was the most famous London pizzeria. In Naples. It seemed that half the clientele was visiting the UK from Southern Italy. Many had heard that Peppe, its head pizzaiolo, had worked back home at Trianon and had established the house style for his colleagues and successors at Spaccanapoli. Peppe tutored both Paolo and Nicola, two pizzaioli who moved to sister restaurant Santoré and brought their incredibly light touch with them after Spaccanapoli was forced to close.

Santoré’s baked pizzas, with their puffy cornicione, are weightless – in the very best sense of the word. Owner Mimo (no one calls him Dominico) Savarese wouldn’t have it any other way.

That the Spaccanapoli spirit lives on in Clerkenwell should be reason enough to come celebrate on the 23rd of March. But Mimo promises to make this #PizzaTuesday extra special by featuring the signature rotolo rustica – rolled pizza filled with three cheeses and aubergine – on top of a tasting of 4 pizza varieties, including a truly classic Margherita. Other surprise additions to the menu are planned.

Everyone will have the opportunity to visit the pizza kitchen, feel the heat of the oven, meet Paolo or Nicola and maybe investigate if the Trianon connection is true. But in the end that shouldn’t matter when the pizza and pizzeria, though located at London’s Exmouth Market, are so very close to Naples.

BOOK NOW

The next #PizzaTuesday is on the 23rd of March 7:30pm at Santoré – 59 Exmouth Market, London. Book now.

The benefit of the marathoners’ collective resolve became clearer with the passing of each pizza lap. The Chianti-fueled runners breezed through the outstanding 4th and 5th pizzas – a crostino salsiccia e broccoletti (white pizza with spicy sausage and broccoli rabe) and crostino salsiccia e porcini (white pizza with sweet sausage and fresh porcini mushrooms) without the slightest hint of shortness of breath. All but one made it to the finish line, heartily digging into the 8th and last pizza and praising it with great gusto, much to Leonelli’s satisfaction. He’d prepared the crostino bresaola e rucola (white pizza with air-dried beef and rocket) as a PizzaTuesday exclusive with an assist from his mamma back in Rome. She’d sent him the bresaola in an unmarked parcel.

In designing a marathon menu featuring various toppings and combinations I confess to an ulterior motive: I wished to demonstrate to participants the pure pleasure of a red pizza accessorized only with tomatoes – pizza rossa – or tomato and anchovies – pizza marinara. The base of a pizza al taglio, as the rectangular “by-the-cut” pizza is known in Rome and practised in London at Datte Foco,  is an ideal platform for a generous layer of plum tomatoes: It’s thicker and crispier than Neapolitan-style pizza and therefore doesn’t turn soggy or mushy under the weight of a red sauce.

The rossa and marinara together constituted the evening’s true taste breakthrough. Although the group loved the more elaborate toppings, a good third picked the elemental red pizzas as their favorite. Even those who preferred one of the other 7 pizzas regarded the rossa as something of a revelation. Most couldn’t recall ever trying or, for that matter, contemplating a pizza with tomatoes as its only topping. Yet it was just such a pizza, laid bare without the usual cover of mozzarella and sampled amongst a marathon of classic combinations, that proved to be the biggest and best surprise of all. The fullness of the sweet, zesty, unvarnished tomatoes in the mouth can be one of the great sensations in the pizza eating experience.

The next PizzaTuesday is 23 February at Pizza Metro Pizza. Book now.